What and Where is Lao Man E?

Puer tea is generally named after the village it comes from. Lao Man E is one of the five famous ancient tea gardens of the Bulang tea region, together with Lao Ban Zhang, Xin Ban Zhang, Baka Long, and Baka Nan Villages. Lao Man E is situated in the central area of the Bulang Mountain range in Menghai County. It covers an area of 6800 hectares, 200 of which are ancient tea gardens that have been passed down generationally for nearly two millennia.

Since the beginning of the Puer boom, the locals have become increasingly meticulous in protecting the local tea gardens. They have established rules to maintain the ecological environment of the tea gardens, prohibiting the use of chemical fertilizers and pesticides, thereby ensuring the quality of the tea leaves.

Compared to it’s famous neighbor, Lao Ban Zhang, Lao Man E has a slightly lower altitude, higher temperatures, and a more humid climate throughout the year. Lao Man E has an average elevation of 1,650 meters, average annual temperature ranging from 18 to 21 degrees Celsius (64 to 70 F), and annual rainfall of approximately 1,372 millimeters. These factors make it an ideal climate for tea cultivation. To many Puer tea aficionados, a high-grade Bulang Raw Puer is among the best you can find.

What Makes Lao Man E Unique?

Within the Bulang tea region, it is Lao Ban Zhang and Lao Man E villages that may be most distinct in terms of tea. Most notably, Lao Man E tea is known for its pronounced bitterness, which has earned it a reputation in the tea world.

This bitterness is not a flaw of the tea, however, but rather its most appealing aspect.

In China, it’s said that only seasoned Puer drinkers can fully appreciate Lao Man E, while newcomers are advised to gradually work up to it.

This is because seasoned Puer people are relatively accustomed to bitterness, while some even feel that Puer tea isn't authentic without a certain degree of bitterness. Indeed, it is this particular bitterness that gives Lao Man E its distinctive character compared to other tea mountains. Consequently, more and more people have come to appreciate this rich and intense bitterness, and Lao Man E has gradually become a sought-after tea among tea enthusiasts. The distinct and enjoyable properties of Lao Man E bitterness is as follows;

First, although Lao Man E is bitter, it is not excessive, and remains balanced with a sweet aftertaste. Upon drinking Lao Man E tea, its initial bitterness relatively quickly transforms into a long-lasting cooling sweetness that coats the mouth and throat. If the tea merely presents as bitter without transforming, it’s not an authentic Lao Man E tea.

Moreover, the bitterness of Lao Man E exhibits a pure and straightforward character. In an almost zen-like way, the bitterness of Lao Man E tea is the purest and clearest essence of bitter. It is thick, powerful, and strikes the tongue with intensity and rapidity. Soon thereafter, though, a prominent contrast is felt as the initial bitterness gives way to sweetness.

Other Tasting Notes

Lao Man E's outstanding features include a robust tea aroma, a lingering sensation in the throat, and a pronounced sweetness in the aftertaste. The dry leaves of Lao Man E are plump, dense, and tightly rolled. The infusion produces a vibrant golden and translucent liquor. The taste is intense and robust, while the leaves are highly durable, remaining flavorful through 10+ infusions. While the initial taste is bitter, it quickly transforms, resulting in a complex and deeply satisfying aftertaste.

In summary, the characteristics of Lao Man E's ancient tree tea is as follows:

1. Thick, dense, and tippy leaves with a vibrant appearance.
2. Radiant golden liquor.
3. Bitter up front, with bitterness fading and giving way to sweetness. After 5-7 infusions, a refreshing sensation and pleasant aftertaste emerge more prominently.
4. Strong tea aroma, cold nature, and a smooth mouthfeel after ten infusions, making it highly suitable for prolonged sessions.

How to Prepare Lao Man E Tea Pearls

To fully appreciate the nuanced flavors and aromas of Lao Man E tea, it is recommended to use the gongfu tea method, which involves brewing the tea in a gaiwan or small clay teapot. Here's a simple guide to preparing Lao Man E tea using the gongfu method:

1. Preheat: Rinse the gaiwan or teapot with hot water to preheat it and enhance the tea's aroma.
2. Place 1 pearl (~8 grams) of Lao Man E tea leaves into the preheated vessel.
3. Water Temperature: Heat water to around 195-205°F (90-96°C), suitable for brewing Raw Puer tea.
4. First Infusion: Pour hot water over the tea leaves and discard the first infusion (this is called rinsing the leaves). This helps to awaken the tea, and loosen the tightly wrapped leaves of the Lao Man E tea pearl.
5. Subsequent Infusions: Pour hot water over the leaves again and steep for about 20-30 seconds for the first few infusions. With each infusion, the pearl will slowly unfold and the flavor profile will gradually expand and evolve. Eventually, the pearly will completely open and be able to release its full flavor. Adjust the steeping time according to personal preference and the desired strength of the tea.
6. Enjoy: Pour the brewed tea into small cups and savor the exquisite flavors and aromas of Lao Man E tea.

For a refresher on tea infusion practice and theory, see Chapter 5 of the Masterclass on Tea

Conclusion

For seasoned Puer drinkers, this tea brings an intensity and authenticity that is hard to find in the Puer landscape today. This will not be your go-to empty-stomach morning cup of tea, but when the moment strikes, and the spirit calls for the pure essence of Raw Puer to shake the hand of every single cell in your body, this is the tea the reach for.